Textile Database

The third textile quality is a small fragment of weft-faced tabby with spliced S2*z threads of ca. 0.45 mm in diameter in both directions. The fragment preserves part of a side edge of the fabric. The edge shows a particular reinforcement technique where the weft passes over and under the two last warp threads when it arrives at the edge. A similar side edge has been observed in a 5th c. BCE fabric from Kerameikos, Athens (Spantidaki 2016, 65, Fig. 5.28, Cat. no 10).

The study indicates that this is a, most probably, wool fabric (today very much degraded), dyed in a bright purple colour (at least near the decoration) and decorated with tapestry patterns made using a supplemental, thicker linen thread in the natural shade of flax. While the linen, decorative thread has survived in different degrees of mineralisation, sometimes in a very good condition, others very degraded, the wool, background fabric has almost vanished, surviving only in blackish traces scattered among the tapestry designs. 

This tapestry joins the tradition where the background fabric is dark and illuminated by the bright, decorative weft forming the pattern (e.g. Lefkandi, Thessaloniki), as opposed to the subsequent tradition, famously depicted in the Coptic tapestries, where the dark, coloured decorative weft weaves the patterns on the light background (Vergina, Coptic tapestries).

Many tapestry fragments have been spotted during the study and the final impression is that they all belong to the same fabric, although they have been preserved differently depending on their placement and contact to other objects. Specifically, the tapestry has been found on the surface of the larger tabby HNAM inv. no Π 9651_a, in freestanding fragments HNAM inv. no Π 9651_b, in relation with the silver vase HNAM inv. no Π 9588 and in contact with the bronze vase HNAM inv. no Π 9566. 

The find is composed of a large mineralised tabby, on the surface of which there are traces of a second fabric. These traces, scattered all over its surface, on both sides, seem to belong to a very degraded, dark coloured fabric, once decorated with tapestry patterns and dyed purple. Five such patterns are still conserved on the surface of the larger tabby, while a larger one and minute ones are conserved freestanding and others in connection with the bronze vase HNAM inv. no Π 9566.

It is a balanced tabby that looks very much like the fabric wrapping the three weapons from the same tomb N (HNAM inv. no Π 8591, 8592, 8589), as well as the balanced tabby found in connection to the bronze vase HNAM inv. no Π 9566 (HNAM inv. no Π 9566_a). It exhibits a dark brown colour with many green copper salts and is conserved in one layer, with a fold at the centre. On the surface of this fabric are many remains of black, degraded threads and beige tapestry patterns belonging to a different textile. Most probably, the black threads correspond to the background fabric of the tapestry that has been degraded (it was probably made with animal fibres and/or dyed).

The fabric is a balanced tabby with many traces of copper oxides and degraded black threads of a different fabric on its surface. The threads have the characteristic S2*z structure found in most of the textiles of the Grave Circle corpus, and seem to have been made with splicing.

On the back side of the fabric there are many traces of silver corrosion, as if a silver object has been degraded and has had a reaction with the presumed wool of the poorly conserved, darker fabric. According to G. Mylonas, the only silver vase of the grave (HNAM inv. no Π 9588) has been found in many small fragments in the area of the bones of the first deceased (West part of the grave). The remains of the vase have been examined and found to contain traces of a very degraded, blackish fabric on its surface. Moreover, there are visible areas with purple colour, most probably deriving from the discoloration of the purple dyed fabric. According to this examination, it seems that the two fabrics were laying on the vase (perhaps wrapped around it) although a more specific observation as to their exact connection to the vase cannot be made at the moment.

The bronze blade conserves part of the textile with which it was wrapped. One side preserves a large fragment conserved in multiple layers (in some areas more than six) in a mineralised condition. The other side preserves minute traces on the blade, as well as a textile fragment on the nails, indicating that this side was also in connection to the fabric. The second side preserves also a silver wire of unknown use.

The fabric is conserved in a different level of mineralisation according to its closeness to the bronze dagger, in general its condition is very good and allows both macroscopic and microscopic study. The textile is a balanced tabby with an average of 22 threads/cm in both directions. Similarly to the most of the textiles of the Grave Circles corpus, the threads have been created with the splicing technique and have a S2*z structure with an average twist. Their diameter varies between 0.30 and 0.45 mm in both directions. 

The fabric conserves part of its starting border decorated with a narrow band sewn at its edge with a thicker thread.

Based on its technical characteristics, this textile seems to be the same as the one associated to the bronze dagger HNAM inv. no Π 8591, the bronze spearhead HNAM inv. no Π 8589, the remains associated with the bronze vase HNAM inv. no Π 9566_a and the freestanding fragment HNAM inv. no Π 9651_a.

Still adhering to the bronze dagger it used to cover, this is a well-preserved balanced tabby, only superficially mineralised. It is conserved on one side of the dagger and covers almost all its surface, from the nails to the tip. It is damaged and torn in many places, folded in others and lays on the dagger without indication about whether it was originally wrapped around it. 

The fabric is a balanced tabby with a thread count of 20-22 threads/cm in both directions. Under magnification, the threads appear very clean and shiny. They belong to the Bronze Age tradition of spliced threads and present the S2*z structure found in most of the textiles of the Grave Circles corpus. The diameter of the warp thread varies between 0.28 and 0.36 mm and of the weft between 0.28 and 0.44 mm.

In three different areas of the fabric there is an additional S2*z thread that is inserted in the fabric and comes out again and floats freely in one case forming a loop at its end and in the two others ending in two strands. The mean diameter of this thread is 0.33 mm, which corresponds to the threads of the fabric. This thread was possibly used to sew a decorative object to the fabric.

The good condition of the fabric has allowed its examination in the optical microscope in order to perform the fibre identification. The examination has been carried out using ARTEX’ optical microscope NIKON Eclipse 50i with reflected light. This study combines the examination of fibres both in longitudinal view and cross sections. In the cross section, single fibres or small fibre bundles of 3-4 fibres show a central lumen and characteristic dislocations, as well as elements of diagonal layout. These characteristics indicate plant fibre materials from the stem of the plant (flax, hemp, nettle) and the mean diameter of 14.3 μm points to flax fibres.

A sample of threads has also been examined in the Scanning Electron Microscope (C2RMF, Paris). The fibres present the characteristic dislocations, the polygonal lumen, as well as the diagonal elements that are typical features of flax fibres.

The fabric is a balanced tabby with a thread count of 19 threads/cm for the warp and 21-22 threads/cm for the weft. The threads have the characteristics of spliced threads with an S-twist for the final thread and a z-twist for each single thread (Gleba and Harris 2018). The diameter of the warp thread varies between 0.30 and 0.38 mm and of the weft between 0.28 and 0.44 mm. In many places they appear very clean and shiny. The result is a dense fabric with approximately 20 threads/cm.

Voluntary perforations in the fabric indicate the presence of a supplementary thread that has now disappeared. Perhaps this was used for sewing a decorative object or embroidery.

Similarly to the fabric HNAM inv. no Π 8591, here again, there is an additional S2*z thread, with a diameter of 0.35 mm, inserted in the fabric with its ends floating freely. It probably corresponds to an additional thread serving to sew a decorative element on the fabric.

Black traces on several areas of the surface of the fabric correspond, with all probability, to a different, heavily degraded textile, which was made of a different material (wool) as is the case in other textiles from the Grave Circles.

The technical characteristics of this fabric indicate that it corresponds to the same textile that also covered the bronze dagger HNAM inv. no Π 8591 and the bronze knife HNAM inv. no Π 8592. A sample for analyses has been taken from the fabric HNAM inv. no Π 8591.

Among the textiles found with the fragmented bronze vase, several display the characteristics of tapestry decoration. They mostly conserve a single thread direction, the weft forming the decoration, while minute traces of very degraded, blackish, warp threads are visible between the weft. The loops formed by the weft changing direction to form the tapestry design are visible in every fragment, while in some of them are conserved few or many traces of the darker background fabric. 

No sample has been collected for fibre identification from the decorative thread nor the background fabric, so there is no sure identification of the material used. However, the background fabric, conserved in a very degraded state, was, very probably, made of animal material, which would explain the great difference in its conservation from the decoration thread, which has the characteristic aspect of plant thread, most probably flax. These characteristics align with the ones of the fabric ΗΝΑΜ inv. no Π 9651_b, from the same grave, which conserves a light colour tapestry decoration on a dark, degraded, background fabric, dyed with a bright purple colour. These technical characteristics, along with the fact these textile fragments have all been discovered in a very limited area of the grave, near the bones of the first deceased, invites the thought that the textiles ΗΝΑΜ inv. no Π 9566_c and 9651_b may belong to the same fabric.

Some freestanding fragments found among the fragments of the vase HNAM inv. no Π 9566 present a weft-faced tabby. The fragments are preserved without any conservation treatment, which, in normal circumstances, allows for a more detailed macroscopic study. However, this fabric is quite degraded – some fibre bundles appear to have opened and are protruding from the threads, and there are also traces of the degraded blackish fabric on its surface, elements which make the legibility of its technical characteristics quite challenging. The weft is completely covering the much finer warp to the point to hinder measurements and observation of its structure.

Further observation with different stereoscopes is required in order to ascertain the characteristics of this fabric. 

The find ΗΝΑΜ inv. no Π 9566 comprises at least three different fabrics.

Quality 1) Balanced tabby (probably corresponding to ΗΝΑΜ inv. no Π 9651_a, 8589, 8591, 8592)

It is a mineralised balanced tabby conserved on the surface of the bronze vase. Although no sample has been taken to perform fibre identification, the threads appearance is quite similar to the other plant fibre textiles of the corpus and it is probably another linen fabric. As already spotted in other textile remains, in this case also, there traces of a second, very degraded, blackish fabric on its surface. The balanced tabby fragments conserved on the vase are all preserved in a mineralised condition due to the contact with the copper, but their state of degradation differs from one fragment to another.

This find, coverd with wax, is preserved in a very degraded, mineralised condition. The legibility of its technical characteristics by macroscopic observation is very limited.

This find, fipped in wax, is conserved in a very degraded, mineralised condition that allow the legibility of certain technical characteristics only. It probably corresponds to the fabric HNAM inv. no Π 15864_b.

This find, preserved in a heavily mineralised condition, and composed of two fragments, has been dipped in wax during the excavation to remove it from the soil. Like in other similar cases, the wax has covered the textile and is hindering the legibility of technical characteristics in both macroscopic and microscopic levels.

Even in these circumstances, the macroscopic observation underlined the resemblance of this find to another one. Three different textile qualities have been identified, which, despite their really bad preservation condition, seem to correspond to the three textile qualities identified in the find ΗΝΑΜ inv. no Π 15864. The three textiles have been found together, in contact with each other, as in the previous find. Their general aspect, weave, colour, the fact that they have been dipped in wax, all point to the strong possibility that they all form part of the same three fabrics, although the technical characteristics of the textiles ΗΝΑΜ inv. no Π 9616, such as thread diameters and thread count, are very difficult to discern.

Quality 1 is a weft-fabed tabby preserved in a heavily mineralised condition. Its technical characteristics are not discernible. Although a sampling permit has been issued for SEM analysis, the presence of the wax covers the threads and does not allow for any technical details to be observed.

Very degraded fabric. In most areas, the threads have opened and the fibrils are visible; the threads have lost their structure and the fabric has a felt-like appearance. Like in HNAM inv. no Π 9616_c, which is very probably the same fabric, the weft direction is Z-plied. In some rare areas, the weave has been preserved; it is again a tabby, and the open structure of the textile suggests more likely a balanced tabby rather than a weft-faced one. This fabric is associated with a red colour. 

Although partially mineralised, this fabric is in better condition than the first quality and has preserved more organic matter. The threads, again of the same structure, spliced and plied with a final S twist, seem more flexible. The weave is balanced and more open.

This find comprises three different textiles.

Quality 1: Weft-faced tabby

This fabric is a mineralised weft-faced tabby. It is conserved, dipped in wax, in several different fragments, which show different levels of degradation. The threads are rather thick compared to other textiles of the Grave Circles; like in most of the textiles of the corpus, the threads are plied with an S twist and their characteristics suggest that they have been spliced. The weave is dense and the weft threads are covering the warp threads. 

The fabric preserves an area where the weft threads are forming loops and are inserted back to the fabric, suggesting the presence of an edge.

Due to the bad condition of the fabric, we have not been able to take a sample to examine the fabric under the optical microscope. Youlie Spantidaki and Christophe Moulherat had examined the fabric under the SEM in 2007 but, due to the bad preservation condition of the sample, it was very hard to identify the fibre safely.

A necklace with 14 beads conserves traces of the thread that connected the beads. One bead conserves a fragment of the thread that has opened and reveals a number of probably seven strands (diameter 1.86 mm, while another conserves the thread in a more compact way, less degraded (diameter 1.49 mm altogether). Also, in the case of the more compact thread, we can distinguish five strands on one side, and one must assume that on the other side there are probably five more. Unfortunately, it was not possible to flip the bead with the protruding thread to count the strands more accurately. 

The fabric is an open balanced tabby finer than the previous one. The threads are plied and spliced, with a marked S-twist. Despite the degraded condition of the fabric, one can observe the cleane and shiny threads, treated and prepared with great care resulting in a high-quality textile. Observation under the optical microscope and the SEM have shown the characteristics of flax fibres.

It is a very degraded, blackish balanced tabby. Its bad condition did not allow sample extraction in order to perform fibre identification under the optical of SEM microscopes. The threads are thicker than most of the fabrics of the Grave Circles and it has a medium density. The threads are plied with an S-twist, most probably spliced.

Many golden nails are inserted in the weave, due to the proximity of the fabric to a sword decorated with gold embroidery. Perhaps the sword was wrapped in the fabric. 

Traces of a very degraded blackish textile are visible on multiple areas of the surface of the first two fabric qualities. These remains belong to a different textile, now almost entirely disintegrated. Because such traces occur on both sides of the fragments, it is plausible that the linen textiles had originally been wrapped in another fabric. The poor state of preservation of this dark textile, together with its strong contrast to the linen fabric (quality 1), suggests that it was made of animal fibres, most likely wool, and was possibly dyed. This material is considered the fourth fabric quality. Unfortunately, the altered condition of the find did not allow for the extraction of a sample suitable for SEM analysis, and therefore the fibre identification could not be confirmed.

On the largest fragment of the linen fabric, an area of bright purple coloration is preserved among the traces of the black degraded textile. This colour originates from the deteriorated dark fabric and not from the linen itself. A non-destructive hyperspectral analysis conducted by Philippe Walter and Clarisse Chavanne (Sorbonne University) indicated the presence of true shellfish purple. However, an HPLC analysis performed by Dr Ilaria Serafini at the A3Tex Lab, Sapienza University of Rome, revealed that the fabric had in fact been dyed using a double-process plant dye, specifically a mixture of madder and indigo, to produce the bright purple colour still visible today.

This finding is groundbreaking, representing the first evidence of both dyes—madder and indigo—in ancient Greece. Madder has previously been identified in a wool fabric from Lefkandi (radiocarbon-dated to the 13th–10th c. BCE), while indigo has never before been detected in a Greek archaeological textile.

A small textile fragment presents  evidence of a finer weave than the previous fabric. Owing to its very limited dimensions, no sample was taken for fibre analysis; however, the appearance of the threads strongly suggests that this textile is also made of flax. Unlike the first fabric quality, this specimen appears to be woven sith single, s-twisted threads. This is highly unusual for this period, in which the vast majority of textiles are produced using plied threads. 

The fragment conserves part of a selvedge. One thread direction consists of pairs of threads working together, while the other contains single threads. At the edge, the paired threads split: one turns to the left and the other to the right before re-entering the fabric. In effect, the weft passes over and under two warp threads instead of one, producing a reinforced edge commonly known as rep. This  technique is traditionally associated with the starting borders of textiles woven on the warp-weighted loom. Comparable rep starting borders are known from several periods and regions: a Neolithic fabric from Switzerland (Barber 1991, 135, fig. 4.12),  an Early Bronze Age fabric from Lucone di Polpennazze, Brescia, Italy (Gleba and Harris 2018), various Hallstatt fabrics (Grömer 2005, 20), and a 5^th c. BCE textile from Eleusis, Attica (Spantidaki, pers. obs.; Mylonas 1954, fig. 11; Zisis 1954, fig. 1)

Because the fragment is very small and preserves only part of the edge, the available measurements cannot be considered representative of the entire textile. Edges are typically reinforced, leading to a higher density than in the main body of the fabric. The textile could therefore correspond either to a balanced or a weft-faced tabby.

It is a fine, dense, balanced tabby preserved in freestanding fragments. The fabric is mineralised, most likely due to prolonged proximity to a metal object, and several areas exhibit copper oxides. No technical elements, such as edges or decorative elements have been identified.

In certain areas, the textile preserves small perforations, where the threads appear to have been displaced to make space for an additional element. This may indicate the presence of embroidery, or the former attachment of decorative components.

As in several other textiles from the Grave Circles, ΗΝΑΜ inv. no Π 228 retains traces of a black, heavily deteriorated secondary fabric on its surface. This second textile was most probably made of animal fibres, which would explain its poor preservation state.

A sample from the main fabric was examined under the optical microscope; however, its degraded condition did not allow for a reliable identification of the fibres. Further analysis using SEM/EDS is expected to provide more conclusive information regarding fibre identification.

The find ΗΝΑΜ inv. no Π 816 consists of four different textile qualities. Most of the remains of this find belong to this first quality. The largest fragment is conserved in several layers (ca. 7). It is a mineralised balanced tabby, conserved in many fragments and in different states of preservation, presumably due to its proximity to a metal object. In this case, even in the same textile fragment some areas are better preserved than others, thus making the study quite complicated. 

The fabric has been made of S-plied spliced threads. The appearance of the threads varies greatly among the different fragments of the fabric. In some areas they appear fluffy and closer to their original diameter, though often their colour has been changed by the presence of copper oxides; in other areas, the threads have shrunk and opened and often resemble flat ribbons. Similarly, there is a variety also in the twist of the threads varying from subtle to hard-twisted.

A sample of this fabric has been sent to IFIN-HH Laboratory in Bucharest for carbon dating. The results showed a 92% probability for a dating between 1772 and 1611 BCE.